9/8 – Kangerlussuaq Fiord -> Reykjavik

Travel day.  Mostly a sort of dull torture.

We bundled ourselves up to get out of the rooms by 9:00am so that Gina (in our case) would have time to clean the room AND eat lunch before the next tour group arrived.

It was the last day to distribute photos and pick up photos from the Internet Cafe, which neither has Internet nor is a cafe. So I helped people a bit who were having trouble with dropping and collecting photos from the Macs there.

So it was all hurry up and wait. Finally taken off the ship in Zodiacs to the port of Kangerlussuaq. Then we were piled onto a variety of busses – old school busses included, and taken on a very bouncy and trip around the high lights of Kangerlussuaq. The main drag. The old abandoned military radio station.  The bridge that gets washed out. The view from the other old military radio station. The viewpoint where one might see a Musk Ox (Really? Yes! We did! One…at a distance…) and a view of the Greenland Icecap.

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Very fine glacial polish.DSC_9710.jpg

Ex-military radio station.


Then a truly bumpy ride back to the airport.  While the trip on the Explorer was never rough enough to have given Patty mal-de-mer I am convinced that the bus ride would have required the tossing of cookies.


Once we got on board, my seat was right next to the open door.  I got a picture down the fiord 10 miles to a shot of the Explorer, waiting there:DSC_9728.jpg

Then back to Reykjavik.


Then back to home. This is a shot over Greenland from the plane.  That is where we were – I think that is Baffin Bay below us stretching north:


I’m kind of sorry it is over, kind of not sorry. It has been a long trip. But I will always love traveling on the Explorer to wilderness places, and I will still think on it long after we are many years far away from there.

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9/7 – Kangaamiut – Kangerluarsuuat Fiord –

This is a deep fiord and we awoke to find ourselves already far into it.  We were in front of a frequently calving glacier, so crazy tourquoise blue.

DSC_9612.jpgI took pictures of it with my iPhone since I wanted to be able to justify the color tweaking that I was going to have to do to try to capture the feeling.

We Zodiaced to the rocks and just before we left we heard an announcement that there seemed to be more bugs here than we had seen previously. So Will said, NOPE.  And went on the Zodiac cruise instead, and I still signed up for the long walk.

I have found that when I long walk, I get hot, and have to take off my jackets, and then I am stuck carrying those jackets around.  Peggy has a great jacket thet has straps which are early draped around the body and the jacket is essentially OFF.  I end up sticking both jackets in my strap of my camera case, and that isn’t exactly great, but it seems to work sort of.

Anyway there was a magic stream and waterfall rolling down to the rocky beach where we landed.  Carl Eric was our leader for the long hike and we started to clamber up the hillside along the stream. 

DSC_9578.jpgDSC_9570.jpgIt was glorious, but very mosquito-y.  Luckily, one of the teachers, Kate, had brought a bunch of DEET-based insect repellant, and I think that helped a lot.  And when we surmounted the first rise, it seemed that we left a lot of the mosquitos behind.  As we went further in, toward the hanging glaciers that hung above the high valley we were aiming for the mosquitos were less and less. 

DSC_9586.jpgThere were about 5 rises, or saddles to climb up to get to the grand flat before the huge hanging glaciers.  From the first three one could look back and see the huge calving glacier to the left, and the waiting fiord stretching directly back to the horizon. 

DSC_9620.jpgWe climbed and climbed and it seemed that we were in a veritable jungle of plant life, as the wild lichen and flowers and strange plants grew bigger and bigger and more and more lush in this valley.

DSC_9630.jpgDSC_9611.jpgDSC_9579.jpgIt was wide open scape, but we suffered no wind and were fording tons of bright moss grown streams fed by the snow above no doubt. We lept from rock to rock and from tussock to tussock, doing our best to keep our shoes dry, and caught between taking pictures with the macro lens in the grass and swamp, and trying to capture the breadth of view of the massive ranges above us.  Probably didn’t capture either one, really.


I realized that the freedom we were enjoying in this hike had a lot to do with the freedom from concern about polar bears.  We were out of the territory of polar bears, and so they had given up carrying the rifles and had stopped requiring us to all move as a pack.  What a delight!  Kate had explained to everyone how to use the magnifier tool on our iPhones and so a number of people were just captivated by that feature and taking picture after picture in “Macro-mode”.  Joe hung way way back from all of us, kneeling on the ground exploring the flora.  We all were seeming to breath deeper breaths and strike out on our own.  It was glorious.

After a couple of hours of this, it seemed that it was time to get back down the hill. There was an older couple who were committed to doing everything, and always the longest walks.  He was generally sort of unsteady on his feet and he walked with two sticks as did his wife. It was a pickle because he just did what he wanted to do and he always wanted to do the longest walks, and so he was always struggling ahead, without looking at anyone from side to side, in a kind of a trance about keeping up.  Another young woman, Adele, and I decided to specifically say, “We will take the quick way down now” to try to encourage him to not follow those who had lept on like springboks before.  He said “Those others, did they do the traverses across here?” pointing at the “not the way down” path. And when we said yes, he announced that he would take that route and started off.  

We did go down the “Short way” and it did n’t feel all that short, because it was a long walk.  When we got back we overheard a call from Carl that said that the gentleman was insisting on going the further way, and it looked like he and the gentleman would be a good 15 minutes late.  And they were.  The ship was late in starting out. He wife was at one sense appalled and was saying “You won’t be able to make him go less.  He doesn’t want to – I can’t make him go less.” and at the same time saying “We paid the same amount as everyone.  We get to…”

Awkward. See earlier discussion.  I don’t know how Lindblad could manage this better.

Anyway, we all piled back on the ship finally, had a nice lunch as the ship sailed regally back down the fiord, to it’s opening, where there is a wonderful little town, Kangaamiut,DSC_9644.jpg built on the steep steep sides of the granite-ish rocks that fall to the sea.

All the houses are the typical Greenlandic with many colors, some with gorgeous trim.

DSC_9645 3.jpgThere are staircases going from the shoreline up to the houses above. 


DSC_9649.jpgWill and I took a nice hike up up up to the top of the hill above the town, where there was a picnic table for enjoying the view.

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DSC_9674.jpgand then a traverse across many boulders to the other top of the town, where we could look out at the monumental views.

DSC_9653.jpgWe could see a little cemetery, hidden amidst the rocks.

DSC_9678.jpgthen back down the other side. 

Will headed back to the ship.

I made a slower pass across the town.  I found Joe working on the last of the great photos that he no doubt took this trip.DSC_9687.jpg

DSC_9638.jpgThe detail on the little museum was charming.


And then it was time for the last night on the ship.

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9/6 Qeqertarsuaq, Disko Island

DSC_9432 2.jpgThis was a whacky hike.  So whacky.  We landed (dry landing) in the town, and immediately as we were going on the long hike, were taken out of town toward the “Basalt columns”. 

DSC_9441.jpgWe hiked along the seashore, basically, without a trail to speak of, and since the trek was about 7 miles altogether, we really ploughed along. Will kept up with Jenny, but I was trying to take a picture or two and fell way behind. 

IMG_4951.JPGThen Kyra and I were talking and she started to feel like crap, and had to rest, so we let the rest of the team blast ahead. There was a stiff wind to deal with against us, which didn’t help. After a while, Jenny came whaling past us going back, and Kelly joined us, and the 3 of us started going back.  We went about 50 yards up the hill and found a lovely yellow-cairn-marked trail, which was straight and flat and din’t require climbing through bogs, or over hill and dale.  We got back in no time.  It turns out that Will had gone another 100 yards up the hill and found ANOTHER trail which was really more of ATV track, smooth and flat and practically paved, so an EVEN EASIER trail to take!!!

Anyway, with the wind behind us, it seemed to be only moments before we were back in town.  Will said no one actually saw any basalt columns.  

When I read the description of the town.  There is mention made of the Lyngmark Glacier that stands above the town, and well, I’m not sure I even saw such a thing!!!

Anyway, a totally whacky hike.  We did get some time to go into the little museum right at the dock.  IMG_4998.JPG

This is the closest to a narwal tusk I am likely to get


Wayne ready to hit the trailIMG_5005.jpg

In the afternoon I managed to give my little SWITCH presentation to Kelly and Kate.  Kyra was feeling so crappy she canceled. I’ll send it to her to read.

And then as we were starting to listen to Shaylin Potter talk about Phytoplankton, Russ got on the horn and said that two Sperm whale had been spotted!  Holy crap!  That was the end of that presentation… “We brake for Sperm whales.” said Shaylin…

They dive really deep so after the first sighting, we had about 15 minutes before they re-showed up. Big heads, hugely wide backs, one was sort of pale in color.  (A great white…?) Their blow is low on the horizon because they have a blow nostril to one side of their head – to the left.  

DSC_9506.jpgThey came up and went down again 3 times, and then, as they finally dove, both whales dove together, perfectly timed, and both showed their great tails to us.  Fantastic. No one had ever seen something like that.

DSC_9553.jpgI think for most people it was their first sperm whale. It was mine as well!

DSC_9462.jpgVery excited and happy dinnertime.

Everyone started to become busy with final things, signing up for the video chronicle, organizing what to sort out to pack first, etc.

Will and I are going to miss Hector and Rommel and Maria and Chris.  They take such wonderful care of us. And Gina.

I stayed up very late pulling out all the pictures of anyone of interest and identifying them and creating JPEGS etc.  I took it on myself to distribute all the photos of people we wanted to share, including those from Will and I think I did a good job.

Anyway, it was tedious work and I quit at around 12:30, and then had to read my silly Egyptian Mystery to put myself to sleep.

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9/5 – Quilkitsoq – Greenland

We had a long haul to get down the coast of Greenland that night.  We didn’t arrive in Quilkitsoq until 1:30 in the afternoon, and we had multiple presentations to take up the time in the middle.

In a small dark north-facing bay, with a little sheltered valley of turk and tussock-hummock grass, in 1972 a couple of young hunters found 8 mummies which were basically freeze-dried in the bitter wind and cold.  They were dated, eventually, to around 1475.  They tell a tale of hardship, and respect, for the care with which they were entombed was obvious. 

It is a dark, and sort of sad landing.  Very well respected, of course, and much was learned about the cultures from these mummies, but a huge amount of what I learned was that it was a cold, hard life, in Greenland, in 1475.

DSC_9361.jpgWe came ashore and made the tiny hike up to where the bodies were found, and then wandered back and strolled amidst the sacred places in the tiny green valley. The mosquitos were biting, so it seemed none too soon to go back to the ship, actually.  The little valley was facing north on the edge of a wonderful bay, huge, with mountains ringing it in a wondrous profusion. 


Sun lit the rocky edges and went back and forth across the icebergs that still littered the bay. Bright clouds streamed overhead and the south-facing town on the hillside across the bay was cheerful and many colored.

But the gravesite continued to be cold and dark.DSC_9383.jpg


DSC_9397.jpgDSC_9399.jpgIn the nighttime as we were sleeping, Russ awoke us to say that the northern lights were out in force. I struggled up to the above bridge deck, and it was cold, but we did see northern lights. 

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Thank goodness for Will, he actually got some pictures.  Maybe he will sell them to me.

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9/4 – Meville Bay – Holmes Island area

We travelled south to the south/east end of Melville bay over night and woke in a grand fiord with a stunning view.

DSC_9142.jpgI want to deal with a few “housekeeping” topics in this post.

Our cabin and rocking and rolling:

DSC_6290.jpgOur cabin, 348, is right at the back end of the ship, right next to the engine, so we hear it, often during the night, well, anytime that we are moving, actually.  It is a good bit louder than when we were in cabins up toward the middle of the ship, but neither of us has a problem ignoring it when it is time to drop off.  It is loud, like when someone is running a leaf blower on the front lawn, but at least with the window closed.  Sort of a dull roar.  I would say it was white noise, but it is deeper than that.  More like when your kid decided that getting a rock tumbler was mandatory.  And it is a kind of message that we feel comes directly from the captain to us:  “OH SHIT!  The engine just cut out! We are stopping!  Oliver found something! Get into battle gear!” And, being close to the back end of the ship (or in the middle actually) means that our cabin is more stable.  There hasn’t been pretty much any kind of sea action for the entire trip, so that has been fabulous!

Internet access:

When Will and I went on the first trip to Antarctica, in 2012-13, I bought internet access for the entire trip.  But we were at the south end of the world and the access was spotty, to say the least. So I would write a post (and the blogging tools were also much more primitive then) and then I would try to post and then it would be a long long LONG wait of attempting to post, and I’d be sitting there yawning in the Lounge at 12:00am (where the Wifi was better) and at the end of it I would often be rewarded with a “FAILED TO POST” message.  And then I’d sputter and try again.  I would end up getting only 4 or 5 hours of sleep, not for the good reason that it was so beautiful that I couldn’t bear to go to bed, but because I wasn’t getting my post posted.  Stupid.  So after dealing with this for 2 trips (I know, fool me once…) I decided to say PHOOEY! and just make notes and ignore the internet while on these trips unfriendly to the internet.  It could well be that things have improved enough that this kind of CURTAIN OF SILENCE is not necessary now.  But, you know, I kinda LIKE being completely out of touch with the world.  Can you think why?  Which brings me to our dumpy president.


The entire ship’s crew and staff (Crew being the people who work on the ship for stints of 8 or 9 months a year – Staff being people who were engaged for this particular trip and are naturalists, photo instructors, scuba divers, etc.) have been under a stern and wise invocation to not discuss politics. At all. Period.  And they have admirably acceded with this dictum. And, by and large (for an excellent description of the nautical derivation of that phrase, check this out: https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/by-and-large.html) and without instruction, the guests also followed that plan.  It seems that people would prefer a trip like this to be civil overall!  BUT there have been a few lapses.  One evening, before the evening recap (which happened at about 6:15 each evening in the lounge, with drinks)

IMG_4655.jpgwhen a review of all the days activities and sightings was held and sponsored by Russ Evans, the expedition leader, I overheard an older gentleman on the seat to the right of me brandishing a copy of the Times Digest (A paper copy of a digest of the daily New York Times) and growling to the people in his circle, “They should all be sent to jail!” I leaned over and immediately added some kind of agreement, and then he went on saying “That Stormy Daniels woman! She had a contract not to talk and she is blabbing away. She should be locked up and they should throw away the key.” The person next to him said, “Well, that is a civil offense.  Not appropriate to go to jail.  Some kind of fine….” Ick.  I realized that I was in enemy territory. Will and I looked at each other with eyebrows raised to the maximum facial muscles would allow and cringed a bit leftwards in our seats.  I overheard a number of other ODD moments, but mostly, the people we struck up conversations with, after a few feelers were thrown out, were solidly anti-Trumpers.  You would think so, since this was an exploration of many many many hanging glaciers, which were melting away in our very faces, that the big fat climate change denier himself would not be particularly popular among this flotilla of passengers.  I wonder what the actual recorded count would be of Trumpers vs. non-Trumpers?


Actually, as much as I did hear, on occasion, various little bits and pieces of Republican stances murmured, when walking though the lounge preparing for recap, I was far more likely to hear “She got that hip, replacement, you know, but it just didn’t take so well.”, “I’ve been keeping up with all my medications on this trip! My doctor will be so proud of me!” “My shoulder just isn’t the same since I was moving that box down from the attic.” “Harry’s sleep apnea just makes it so hard.” So, I have to take a chill pill.

Hector and Rommel:

Will and I love Hector and Rommel.

DSC_6279.jpgThey look after us at breakfast lunch and dinner.  We have taken to eating together at a two seater table, often. At least partially because either he or I have ben sick for much of the trip and sitting there and coughing all over your new friends doesn’t seem all that neighborly, actually.  But the Bistro area where we eat has Hector and Rommel and Chris and Maria to take care of us and they are so wonderful.  We are both quite quite spoiled!!! We had a plot to smuggle Hector into our suitcase but it came to naught.IMG_5022.JPG

I really don’t know why I look so happy here, because I was actually quite sad about leaving them. Stupid selfies. This picture also includes Kate and Lindsey, two of the teachers.

Back to the trip…

We arrived at a grand fiord, high mountain walls on either side. 

DSC_9150.jpgThe “long walk” took us up high, high high to a lookout point from where we could see the ship, a glacier, icebergs in the distance, and another view of icebergs in the distance in another direction!  All quite spectacular.  It was another great hike, as it was ranked as very challenging, somehow those people who come along even though they really are terribly unsteady on their pins, decided not to come, which was great. So we only had people who were up for doing some hiking.

DSC_9159.jpgI hate to be a bum about it, but I am eager to do big hikes, and when someone is coming along and really cannot keep up, or you are watching and waiting for them to fall, or you are feeling like you have to pause and help them up each and every boulder in the way, it does color the trip.  I really wanted to be gracious and helpful and kind, and I feel bad about not being empathetic, especially since I think the chances of me getting Alz are rather high, especially if we are taking into account the current terrible memory I have for pretty much anything.  I found myself worrying about this one guy so much on the trip, that I was having difficulty concentrating on the view.  He wasn’t really all that appreciative, either.  I would try to start a conversation and he would ignore me or give me the brush off. I think he just didn’t have capacity to include other people in his world view. He reminded me of my Dad when he was in Alzheimer’s grip. My Dad had a great deal of pride and when he got something into his head to do, there was no dissuading him.  I think it was because he was finding it difficult enough to get anything straight in his head, so when he had something, anything, that he had decided, he would just stick to it.  Unable to shift or change when things reasonably required shifting and changing. Dennis, the doctor, DSC_8845.jpgis always so patient and kind.  He just would follow along with the person who was furthest behind, having the most difficulties, ready with an arm or a smile, or an innocuous comment.  He is a better person than I am. One of those people that you are very glad to see as a doctor.

I hope I have the grace and awareness to know when I would be inconveniencing others or putting them out by my requirements.  How much do I restrict my activities now because I don’t want to inconvenience others?  Maybe not enough.  Maybe I won’t get that right, and if so, I apologize in advance.

DSC_9181.jpgSerguei came along to pick up lichen, Kate got up on every erratic, Jenny led, the doctor was there in case anyone fell down.  A winner hike. 


DSC_9191.jpgDSC_9197.jpgLoads of Lichen on this trip.  We stopped on a cushioned pad of lichen and everyone lay down and enjoyed the quiet and the soft mattress beneath us. Deep calm fills us. 

Taken laying down:


The only thing missing  from this paradise is animals.  There just aren’t enough animals.

We got back to the ship and began to move further into the fiord.  It turned out that they wanted to take us to actually step on the Greenland Icecap.  There was a place they knew of where it had been possible in the past, so the ship moved gracefully through the narrows.

  • The sleeping glacier opens an eye
  • And winks at the captain changing tack
  • Our regal ship changes her course
  • And, with our shutters, we wink back

Far earlier than usual, two zodiacs filled with naturalists and staff zipped ahead of the ship. 

DSC_9214.jpgShe followed them, moving closer and closer to the end of the fiord.  As we come around the mountain bends, there is the sweep of a great glacier ahead of us, and above it – the ice cap!!!  Will and I are pulling out our gear and looking out the window and we can see the tiny bodies of staff and naturalists hiking up to the white crumpled sheets of ice.

DSC_9234.jpgDSC_9237.jpgDSC_9242.jpgEveryone piled out and made it over there. 

The view of the ice was phenomenal!


I think everyone was sort of suffering from “rapture of the ice”

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DSC_9269.jpg A Circuslike atmosphere, frankly, and it was sort of unnerving seeing so many of the weaker hikers all surmounting the top of the “ice Sheet hill” Will and I achieved the top and then scooted down it, because it was just getting too crowded and crazy. 

Then after a while everyone had gotten up it and then down it, and it was looking more sparse again, and we re-surmounted the top.  Daniel and Joe took our pictures, which was very nice,

DSC_9295.jpgand Alix came up in a dress and looked FABULOUS!  we did Vogue shots of her. 

DSC_9305.jpgWill insisted on getting too close to the edge and Jenny had to drag him back to safety. (Not really)

At the end of the afternoon, on the beach, the hotel staff had made a BBQ of steak sandwiches and beer.  DSC_9329.jpgKelly and Kate and Kiera and Will and I all stood around and debated who we liked better of all the late night political comedians.  It was a fun moment.

And now we are back on board and we are steaming (?) our way down the channel, and I think I will go out and appreciate the view of icebergs for the next hour or so as we leave the Greenland icecap behind!

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9/3 – Kap York – Melville Bay

I couldn’t sleep for coughing after about 5:15am, so I got up and found the bridge, where the teachers were all admiring the early morning view.  I was before the sun rose, so I hung around to see the dawn light, and it was stunning, ever more stunning as we were were arriving gradually at the iceberg haven which is Kap York, and as we moved through the water, we were ever more frequently meeting icebergs as the sun lightened the sky and eventually rose over the horizon ahead.

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Kap York (Cape York) This is a smaller bay (maybe 15 miles across) that is part of a giant bay (Meville Bay) (120 miles across) at the far northern edge of the western edge of Greenland. Kap York has about 12 glaciers feeding into it, and it is filled with icebergs, all sorts, all sizes, huge to tiny, deep blue, black, white, grooved, stretched, lagoon, horned, mountains, with ridges, looking like airplanes and unicorns and swans and roasted marshmallows and whipped cream, and all undeniably beautiful. 

The event of the day was a sweet one, just a zodiac ride on the bay amidst the icebergs. Doug, the photo instructor, took us on a sweeping ride through and around a number of fine white behemoths. Sharply cold, the wind kicked up a bit on the water, but we all got many many fine pictures, I think. 

DSC_8913.jpgDSC_8917.jpgDSC_9001.jpgDSC_8925.jpgDSC_8936.jpgDSC_8942.jpgDSC_8952.jpgI haven’t even tried to put mine into any kind of order, and who knows why I took some of them, maybe all of them, but it was mighty fun to ride around them, seeing bears, and fish, and the Sydney Opera House, or the Phantom of the Opera’s mask. Beautiful, with a quiet moment to appreciate the soft slap of the water against the ice.

That afternoon we were moving on to the next destination, so we had two presentations.  Sergui showed us a view of his favorite Canadian National Parks (including the polar bears and mosquitos who live inside them).  Kathy Sullivan also gave us a presentation on the current Space program which was fascinating. She talked about how space (right around earth) was getting crowded with satellites and debris, that 70 countries currently have a space program of some sort, a brief rundown on the work that Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos’s companies have been doing, and an interesting look at the value of a “Space Force” – giving it it’s best possible interpretation. 

Nice Vegetarian Empanada for dinner.

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9/2 – Hvalsund – Bowdoin Fiord

I should have written this immediately, because it would have been fresher in mind, but oh well.  I’ve been sick. That is my excuse and I am sticking to it!

The first morning’s hike was in a place called Hvalsund, West Greenland. We were in Bowdoin Fiord.DSC_8577.jpg

We were ferried off the ship in zodiacs to a rocky landing, and sorted ourselves into the long walk. It was a steep march, and we were told that there was a lake, which would be nice. We took off.

It was a great hike. Maybe the best of the hikes.  A number of factors contributed.  None of the feeble, worrying people came on this hike.  All the hikers were those who don’t mess about, and who are reasonably steady on their pins. 

The lake was reached in quick time, maybe 15 minutes of steep climbing.  It was marvelously smooth. I’m kind of misremembering whether there were two lakes or one. The surface of the lake I’m remembering was so smooth as to provide an optical illusion. 

DSC_8657.jpgAnyway, we continued up and up.  Niore was well ahead of us, high above on the ridge. You could see him in silhouette, against the sky, with his gun.

Marvelous erratic rocks abounded.

DSC_8661 2.jpgAs we achieved the summit, we could see the surface of a glacier right ahead of us.

DSC_8599.jpgWe stopped to take a picture and then he was saying, “no, no, it is better up ahead!” Clearly Jenny already knew that.  She set a stiff pace and we continued on and on up the next ridge. 


DSC_8624.jpgI think it was three ridges that we surmounted before the whole view was exposed to us. There were essentially 5 views from the top that would each have been enough to be worthy of the hike. There was the surface of the glacier, then the edge of the glacier, probably 50 feet of curtain sweeping up against the moraine, then the actual face of the glacier, rising up from the massive fiord, then the fiord itself, with the fantastic shapes of the icebergs in it, and the view of the fiord stretching into the distance, dotted with icebergs as well. All ringed by massive snow tinged mountains.  Breathtaking.  You didn’t know in which direction to take the picture.DSC_8643.jpg

A bit of travel through various fields of floating icebergs led us to the next hike.

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DSC_8780.jpgThe later day’s hike was less fun. 

DSC_8828.jpgIt was at a hunting camp, in current use, and while the site was beautiful, there were the remains of recently butchered narwals evidently on the beach.  We followed Jenny on the hike up to the hills of rocks and rocks and more rocks, which gave us a good view, but it was a sort of challenging hike.  She was frustrated that some of the weaker members of the party decided to hike with us, and it did restrict the territory that we covered. Oh well. There was a great view from the top, for sure, but it wasn’t exactly a happy place.

DSC_8848.jpgDSC_8872 2.jpgDSC_8850.jpgDSC_8856.jpgWe sailed on into the sunset, which actually came earlier than the middle of the night, shockingly enough!  Take that, you flat-earthers!

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